red-mermaid-sleeveless-brocade-cheongsam-qipao-chinese-wedding-dress-d6900e7d-600x800CHEONGSAM is a body-hugging one-piece Chinese dress for Women. The male version is the CHANGSHAN. It is known in Mandarin Chinese as the QIPAO and is also known in English as a MANDARIN GOWN. The stylish and often tight-fitting Cheongsam, that is best known today was created in the 1920s in Shanghai and made fashionable by socialites and upper-class women.

The English ‘loanword’ cheongsam comes from CHEUHNGSAAM, the Cantonese pronunciation of the Shanghainese term ZANZE, by which the original tight-fitting form was first known. In Hong Kong, where many Shanghai tailors fled to after the Communist Revolution in China, the word CHEUHNGSAAM may refer to either male or female garments.

Traditionally, usage in western countries mostly followed the original Shanghainese usage and applies the Cantonese-language name CHEONGSAM to a garment worn by women. The original CHEONGSAM was wide and loose and covered most of the woman’s body, revealing only the head, hands and tips of toes. With time, the Cheongsam were tailored to become more form-fitting and revealing. As western fashions changed, the basic Cheongsam design changed, too, introducing high-necked sleeveless dresses, bell-like sleeves and the black lace frothing at the hem of the ball gown. Cheongsam were replaced by more comfortable clothing such as jeans, sweaters, business suits and skirts. Due to its restrictive nature, it is now mainly worn as FORMAL WEAR for important occasions. Today, Cheongsam are only commonly worn day-to-day by some people —-restaurant hostesses and serving staff at luxury hotels, for instance, as uniform.

The CHEONGSAM is also known as QIPAO and is the garment for women. The male version is known as CHANGSHAN or CHANGPAO. The CHANGSHAN are traditionally worn in pictures, weddings and other formal events. A black CHANGSHAN, along with a rounded black hat, was, and sometimes still is , the burial attire for Chinese men.



background-bespokeThe meaning of the term ‘BESPOKE’ stands for ‘individually patterned clothing’.

It is analogous to women’s HAUTE COUTURE’.  The term originated from Saville Row, a street in London, considered the ‘GOLDEN MILES’ tailoring.  The term ‘BESPOKE’, a British English word, meaning clothing item made to a ‘buyer’s specification’, clothing that is custom-made for the customer.  It is basically ‘EXCLUSIVE CLOTHING’, with a smart HOLOGRAM along the cuff of the shirt, matching POCKET SQUARES to go with the TIE.

In the beginning, it was restricted to clothing.  it is now used to include jeweller, bags, shoes and much more.  Historical data indicates it was once restricted to the craft of SEWING, STITCHING and CUTTING that developed throughout Europe between the 12th and 14th century.

The Old Gate FSFashion is now back full-circle from clothes influenced by movie stars, the fashion flamboyance of the 70’s, the era of the slim suits, the age of the new pinstripe, the metrosexual phase and finally to the retro look all over again.  Now double-breasted blazers, black stripes and over-sized jackets and new colours—-NUDES, CLASSIC BLUES, SAND, PURPLE and GREY  will prevail.  The distinguish points of BESPOKE are the ‘buyer’s total control over the fabric, the features and the way the garment should fit’.  More generally, BESPOKES describe a high degree of CUSTOMISATION and INVOLVEMENT of the end-user.  CAD & DANDY, a modern Saville Row tailor describes TRUE BESPOKE as having a full floating canvas, basted fitting and detailed hand-finishing.

Of Pocket Squares…

I have always liked pocket squares. They seem to add a very chic touch that can transform even a drab suit on occasions.  So when my son informed me that he is setting up a company that will, among other things, make pocket squares, I was excited to check it out!

At the risk of sounding biased, I must say that these squares are quite vibrant and unique! Why don’t you all see for yourself? It would be wonderful if you could send me your comments on this, purely from a consumer perspective. I will convey the same to him 🙂


The Classy Whirl FS


The name of the product is The Golda Squares.


The CRAVAT is a neckband, the forerunner of the modern TAILORED NECKTIE and BOW TIE, originating from 17th century CROATIA.

From the end of the 16th Century, the term BAND applied to any long-strip neck cloth that was not a RUFF.  RUFF = a starched, pleated white linen strip, originated earlier in the 16th Century as a NECK-CLOTH, as a BIB or as a NAPKIN.  It is possible that CRAVATS were initially worn to hide shirts which were not immaculately clean.  Like most men’s fashions, it was of MILITARY ORIGIN.  The traditional CROAT military kit aroused Parisian curiosity about the UNUSUAL, PICTURESQUE scarves, distinctively knotted at the Croat’s necks.  The cloths that were used ranged from the COARSE CLOTH of ENLISTED SOLDIERS to the FINE LINENS and SILKS of the OFFICERS.

il_fullxfull.313963051The sartorial word CRAVAT is derived from the French ‘cravate’, a corrupt French pronunciation of CROATE.  The French switched from old-fashioned STARCHED LINEN RUFFS to the new LOOSE LINEN and MUSLIN CRAVATES.  The military-styles often had BROAD, LACED EDGES, while a gentleman’s cravat could be of FINE LACE.  During the wars of Louis XIV of 1689 – 1697, except for court, the FLOWING CRAVAT was replaced with the more current and equally military STEINKIRK in 1692.  It was popular with men and women until the 1720s.

The maccoronis ( the macaroni or formerly MACCARONI in mid 18th Century, England, was a fashionable fellow who dressed or even spoke in an outlandishly affected manner.  He was the precursor to the DANDY ) reintroduced the flowing cravat in the 1770s, and the manner of a man’s KNOTTING became indicative of his TASTE and STYLE, to the extent that after the Battle of Waterloo (1815), the cravat itself was referred to as a TIE.

Croatia celebrates CRAVAT DAY on the 18th of October.



(1) True enjoyment comes from ACTIVITY of the MIND and EXERCISE of the BODY——-the two are ever united.

(2) The purpose of art is washing the dust of daily life off our souls.

(3) You have to do your own growing, NO MATTER HOW TALL YOUR GRANDFATHER WAS.

(4) Faith is taking the first step, EVEN WHEN YOU DON’T SEE THE WHOLE STAIRCASE.


(6) He knows not his own strength THAT HATH NOT MET ADVERSITY.

(7) Tomorrow, we will be what we are now plus what and how we have faced life’s challenges today.  THIS IS THE LAW OF COSMIC JUSTICE.

(8) Hope is the gay, skylarking pyjamas we wear over yesterday’s bruises.

(9) Always keep the wicked divided.  THE SAFETY OF THE REST OF THE WORLD DEPENDS ON IT.

(10)In making a living today, MANY NO LONGER LEAVE ROOM FOR LIFE.

(11) Don’t laugh at a young man for his affections.  HE IS ONLY TRYING ONE FACE AFTER ANOTHERTO FIND A FACE OF HIS OWN.

(12) Opponents on either side of you——-Far away, they can swing all night and never connect.  Real close, they can’t swing at all. The best way to keep them far away is to EXPLOIT SUPERIOR REACH, if you have it, OR USE YOUR FEET.

(13) Beware–Your clinging-to-ego is greater than yourself.  Pay heed—Your emotions are stronger than yourself—–Your vicious will is far wickeder than yourself—-Your habitual thought is more characteristic than yourself—–Your ceaseless mental activity is more frantic than yourself.

(14) When the resolute man steps up to that great bully—THE WORLD—and takes him boldly by the beard, he is often surprised  to find that the beard comes off in his hand, that it was only tied on to frighten away timid adventurers.