Wrap it up

With dipping mercury levels, a large percentage of men are taking to the popular and essential neckwear ——- THE SCARF.
Unlike before, scarves or stoles, for men, can now be found across a wide range from luxury brands like Alexander McQueen and Louis Vuitton to those from Indian designers.
Further, scarves are no longer boring with dull and plain patterns.  The latest ones that have hit the markets are dressy with some elegant patterns like Polka dots and Foulard.  Besides being an essential accessory, scarves add a strong element of style, especially when they introduce colour to an otherwise bland outfit.
Mumbai-based stylist Karan Singh says, “The most important element to consider while picking a scarf is the comfort factor.  It should be effortless and it’s also important to keep the rest of the outfit simple so it isn’t competing with the scarf for attention.”  —-Wearing a scarf properly is quite an easy task.  However, if you’re still baffled about how to wear one, here are some easy tips.
CLASSIC FLIP : Wrap it around your neck and let the ends fall loose in front.  This style is best worn inside your overcoat.
PARISIAN KNOT : Take the scarf in both hands and fold it over, lengthwise, drape it around your neck, insert the loose ends through the loop hanging in front of you and pull them through.  This knot looks great with a leather jacket or blazer.
TWICE-AROUND KNOT : This style works best with long scarves.  Wrap the scarf around your neck with both ends to the front.  The right side should be twice as long.  Wrap the right side once around your neck ending in the front.  Cross the right end over the left one, bring it behind the left end and pass it to the front, forming a knot.  Adjust the knot closer to your neck.
OVERHAND KNOT : Lay your scarf over your shoulders.  Now take both ends and tie them over and under, similar to when you do your long shoe laces.  Now adjust the front and tighten it.  ——————– Style Sutra.

The moustache

From the lustrous whiskers of England’s Medieval Knights to Magnum, PI and Movember —–Lucinda Hawksley charts the changing fashion of the HIRSUTE UPPER LIP.
Throughout History, facial hair has fallen, in and out of fashion.  Hairy faces have been lauded, derided, immortalised in art and legislated against.  The RISE and the CURL of the MOUSTACHE has never been STRAIGHTFORWARD.
Since the 1st caveman picked up a hinged shell and tweezered whiskers from his face, men have shaped their facial growth.  Over the centuries, the MOUSTACHE has been more popular sometimes, less so at others —–but it never disappears entirely.
As Social History goes through new and varied phases, so does POGONOTROPHY (the act of cultivating facial hair).  England’s Medieval Knights, had armour made to accommodate their lustrous moustaches.  In the 14th Century, Edward, Prince of Wales, was commemorated by an effigy in Canterbury Cathedral.  It shows the Prince in full battle-dress, with chain-mail encasing his face and neck, but allowing his long whiskers to flow over the top.
The MOUSTACHE, as a fashion symbol, really came into its own in England following the heavily-bearded Elizabethan Era.  King James-I was proud of his DAPPER MOUSTACHE.  His son, King Charles -I, made the GOATEE & HANDLEBAR MOUSTACHE ICONIC.  Sheer jealousy of the monarch’s magnificent moustache, led Oliver Cromwell to lead a REPUBLICAN REVOLUTION.  He not only executed the King, but also one of the King’s loyal followers.
During the late 17th Century, beards fell, spectacularly, out of fashion in Europe —–helped in Russia by Tsar Peter the Great’s BEARD TAX.  The younger generation, eventually, kicked out against all this hairy fashion.  They wanted to emulate a poet, who was ‘mad, bad, and dangerous to know’.  Lord Byron kept his face free of hair, except f  or a ROMANTICALLY CURLING SLENDER MOUSTACHE.  For several decades, The BYRONIC STYLE was the sexiest look around, and moustaches ruled the roost.  But in 1854, with the Crimean War, there was a return of the MASSIVE BEARD.
The moustache had become the symbol of the modern man.  In 1920, Agatha Christie, in her 1st crime novel —–THE MYSTERIOUS AFFAIR AT STYLES, introduced Hercule Poirot and his famous moustache.  In Hollywood, Clark Gable, Errol Flynn and Ronald Colman sported moustaches, that could make a heroine swoon. In the 1960s and 1970s, beards were back with a vengeance and the moustache faded into insignificance.
The world’s longest moustache belongs to RAM SINGH CHAUHAN, from India.  In 2010, it reached to over 14ft in length, when it was measured for the Guiness Book of Records.
History has shown that FACIAL HAIR FASHION, can be as mercurial as the platform shoe and high-waisted trousers, but for the moment, the moustache is well and truly back.

The bow tie is back!

f5393b0e_wide-lapels-bow-tie-submit-trashnessBlast from the past :— The bow tie was the key I the signature looks of iconic Hollywood actors : Humphrey Bogart, Fred Astaire and Frank Sinatra to comedians Charlie Chaplin and Pee-wee Herman and personalities like Franklin Roosevelt, Winston Churchill and Groucho Marx.

When you wear a bow tie, doors open for you.  Your posture is a little more erect, your shoulders are a little further back, your style is a little more dynamic.  Its about the re-establishment of the gentleman.  After becoming the weapon of choice for golden Hollywood greats, the bow tie was lost in fashion wilderness for decades.  Since last year, it is back from exile in such a big way that it is practically taking over the necktie.  Bow ties are neat and suggestive of cheekiness, they have a major advantage over the necktie, especially for sloppy eaters.  Bow ties used to be restricted to formal events.  Now they have been brought into casual and semi-formal wear.  They are being teamed with short suits, shirts and jeans.  They are being experimented with prints and colours and even substituting the blazer with leather jackets. 

brad_pitt_traje_negro_camisa_bThis men’s accessory dates back to the 17th century.  Croatian soldiers who travelled to France in support of King Louis tied a bow around their necks to keep their shirts closed and protect themselves from the wind and rain, since buttoned shirts were not available at the time.  King Louis was so impressed, that he made it mandatory for his upper class subjects to wear these bow ties at the palace.  over time, the fabric of the bow tie changed from white cotton to silk.  These days the bow tie comes in one piece that must be knotted and in a pre-tied option which has two clips that easily attach to the collar..  The modern avatar of the bow tie includes a variety of options from polka dotted and plaid to pinstriped.  A black and white suit or tuxedo with a black bow tie—–spells class.  Bow ties and plaid shirts are a match made in menswear heaven.  If the checked shirt is multi-coloured, do not wear a printed bow tie.  But if the plaid shirt is red and white, wear a red or black bow tie.  A lively substitute to the necktie, this men’s accessory has been irresistible this season. ——–Kasmin Fernandes@timesgroup.com


background-bespokeThe meaning of the term ‘BESPOKE’ stands for ‘individually patterned clothing’.

It is analogous to women’s HAUTE COUTURE’.  The term originated from Saville Row, a street in London, considered the ‘GOLDEN MILES’ tailoring.  The term ‘BESPOKE’, a British English word, meaning clothing item made to a ‘buyer’s specification’, clothing that is custom-made for the customer.  It is basically ‘EXCLUSIVE CLOTHING’, with a smart HOLOGRAM along the cuff of the shirt, matching POCKET SQUARES to go with the TIE.

In the beginning, it was restricted to clothing.  it is now used to include jeweller, bags, shoes and much more.  Historical data indicates it was once restricted to the craft of SEWING, STITCHING and CUTTING that developed throughout Europe between the 12th and 14th century.

The Old Gate FSFashion is now back full-circle from clothes influenced by movie stars, the fashion flamboyance of the 70’s, the era of the slim suits, the age of the new pinstripe, the metrosexual phase and finally to the retro look all over again.  Now double-breasted blazers, black stripes and over-sized jackets and new colours—-NUDES, CLASSIC BLUES, SAND, PURPLE and GREY  will prevail.  The distinguish points of BESPOKE are the ‘buyer’s total control over the fabric, the features and the way the garment should fit’.  More generally, BESPOKES describe a high degree of CUSTOMISATION and INVOLVEMENT of the end-user.  CAD & DANDY, a modern Saville Row tailor describes TRUE BESPOKE as having a full floating canvas, basted fitting and detailed hand-finishing.

Of Pocket Squares…

I have always liked pocket squares. They seem to add a very chic touch that can transform even a drab suit on occasions.  So when my son informed me that he is setting up a company that will, among other things, make pocket squares, I was excited to check it out!

At the risk of sounding biased, I must say that these squares are quite vibrant and unique! Why don’t you all see for yourself? It would be wonderful if you could send me your comments on this, purely from a consumer perspective. I will convey the same to him 🙂


The Classy Whirl FS



The name of the product is The Golda Squares.


The CRAVAT is a neckband, the forerunner of the modern TAILORED NECKTIE and BOW TIE, originating from 17th century CROATIA.

From the end of the 16th Century, the term BAND applied to any long-strip neck cloth that was not a RUFF.  RUFF = a starched, pleated white linen strip, originated earlier in the 16th Century as a NECK-CLOTH, as a BIB or as a NAPKIN.  It is possible that CRAVATS were initially worn to hide shirts which were not immaculately clean.  Like most men’s fashions, it was of MILITARY ORIGIN.  The traditional CROAT military kit aroused Parisian curiosity about the UNUSUAL, PICTURESQUE scarves, distinctively knotted at the Croat’s necks.  The cloths that were used ranged from the COARSE CLOTH of ENLISTED SOLDIERS to the FINE LINENS and SILKS of the OFFICERS.

il_fullxfull.313963051The sartorial word CRAVAT is derived from the French ‘cravate’, a corrupt French pronunciation of CROATE.  The French switched from old-fashioned STARCHED LINEN RUFFS to the new LOOSE LINEN and MUSLIN CRAVATES.  The military-styles often had BROAD, LACED EDGES, while a gentleman’s cravat could be of FINE LACE.  During the wars of Louis XIV of 1689 – 1697, except for court, the FLOWING CRAVAT was replaced with the more current and equally military STEINKIRK in 1692.  It was popular with men and women until the 1720s.

The maccoronis ( the macaroni or formerly MACCARONI in mid 18th Century, England, was a fashionable fellow who dressed or even spoke in an outlandishly affected manner.  He was the precursor to the DANDY ) reintroduced the flowing cravat in the 1770s, and the manner of a man’s KNOTTING became indicative of his TASTE and STYLE, to the extent that after the Battle of Waterloo (1815), the cravat itself was referred to as a TIE.

Croatia celebrates CRAVAT DAY on the 18th of October.