With dipping mercury levels, a large percentage of men are taking to the popular and essential neckwear ——- THE SCARF.
Blast from the past :— The bow tie was the key I the signature looks of iconic Hollywood actors : Humphrey Bogart, Fred Astaire and Frank Sinatra to comedians Charlie Chaplin and Pee-wee Herman and personalities like Franklin Roosevelt, Winston Churchill and Groucho Marx.
When you wear a bow tie, doors open for you. Your posture is a little more erect, your shoulders are a little further back, your style is a little more dynamic. Its about the re-establishment of the gentleman. After becoming the weapon of choice for golden Hollywood greats, the bow tie was lost in fashion wilderness for decades. Since last year, it is back from exile in such a big way that it is practically taking over the necktie. Bow ties are neat and suggestive of cheekiness, they have a major advantage over the necktie, especially for sloppy eaters. Bow ties used to be restricted to formal events. Now they have been brought into casual and semi-formal wear. They are being teamed with short suits, shirts and jeans. They are being experimented with prints and colours and even substituting the blazer with leather jackets.
This men’s accessory dates back to the 17th century. Croatian soldiers who travelled to France in support of King Louis tied a bow around their necks to keep their shirts closed and protect themselves from the wind and rain, since buttoned shirts were not available at the time. King Louis was so impressed, that he made it mandatory for his upper class subjects to wear these bow ties at the palace. over time, the fabric of the bow tie changed from white cotton to silk. These days the bow tie comes in one piece that must be knotted and in a pre-tied option which has two clips that easily attach to the collar.. The modern avatar of the bow tie includes a variety of options from polka dotted and plaid to pinstriped. A black and white suit or tuxedo with a black bow tie—–spells class. Bow ties and plaid shirts are a match made in menswear heaven. If the checked shirt is multi-coloured, do not wear a printed bow tie. But if the plaid shirt is red and white, wear a red or black bow tie. A lively substitute to the necktie, this men’s accessory has been irresistible this season. ——–Kasmin Fernandes@timesgroup.com
It is analogous to women’s HAUTE COUTURE’. The term originated from Saville Row, a street in London, considered the ‘GOLDEN MILES’ tailoring. The term ‘BESPOKE’, a British English word, meaning clothing item made to a ‘buyer’s specification’, clothing that is custom-made for the customer. It is basically ‘EXCLUSIVE CLOTHING’, with a smart HOLOGRAM along the cuff of the shirt, matching POCKET SQUARES to go with the TIE.
In the beginning, it was restricted to clothing. it is now used to include jeweller, bags, shoes and much more. Historical data indicates it was once restricted to the craft of SEWING, STITCHING and CUTTING that developed throughout Europe between the 12th and 14th century.
Fashion is now back full-circle from clothes influenced by movie stars, the fashion flamboyance of the 70’s, the era of the slim suits, the age of the new pinstripe, the metrosexual phase and finally to the retro look all over again. Now double-breasted blazers, black stripes and over-sized jackets and new colours—-NUDES, CLASSIC BLUES, SAND, PURPLE and GREY will prevail. The distinguish points of BESPOKE are the ‘buyer’s total control over the fabric, the features and the way the garment should fit’. More generally, BESPOKES describe a high degree of CUSTOMISATION and INVOLVEMENT of the end-user. CAD & DANDY, a modern Saville Row tailor describes TRUE BESPOKE as having a full floating canvas, basted fitting and detailed hand-finishing.
I have always liked pocket squares. They seem to add a very chic touch that can transform even a drab suit on occasions. So when my son informed me that he is setting up a company that will, among other things, make pocket squares, I was excited to check it out!
At the risk of sounding biased, I must say that these squares are quite vibrant and unique! Why don’t you all see for yourself? It would be wonderful if you could send me your comments on this, purely from a consumer perspective. I will convey the same to him 🙂
The name of the product is The Golda Squares.
The CRAVAT is a neckband, the forerunner of the modern TAILORED NECKTIE and BOW TIE, originating from 17th century CROATIA.
From the end of the 16th Century, the term BAND applied to any long-strip neck cloth that was not a RUFF. RUFF = a starched, pleated white linen strip, originated earlier in the 16th Century as a NECK-CLOTH, as a BIB or as a NAPKIN. It is possible that CRAVATS were initially worn to hide shirts which were not immaculately clean. Like most men’s fashions, it was of MILITARY ORIGIN. The traditional CROAT military kit aroused Parisian curiosity about the UNUSUAL, PICTURESQUE scarves, distinctively knotted at the Croat’s necks. The cloths that were used ranged from the COARSE CLOTH of ENLISTED SOLDIERS to the FINE LINENS and SILKS of the OFFICERS.
The sartorial word CRAVAT is derived from the French ‘cravate’, a corrupt French pronunciation of CROATE. The French switched from old-fashioned STARCHED LINEN RUFFS to the new LOOSE LINEN and MUSLIN CRAVATES. The military-styles often had BROAD, LACED EDGES, while a gentleman’s cravat could be of FINE LACE. During the wars of Louis XIV of 1689 – 1697, except for court, the FLOWING CRAVAT was replaced with the more current and equally military STEINKIRK in 1692. It was popular with men and women until the 1720s.
The maccoronis ( the macaroni or formerly MACCARONI in mid 18th Century, England, was a fashionable fellow who dressed or even spoke in an outlandishly affected manner. He was the precursor to the DANDY ) reintroduced the flowing cravat in the 1770s, and the manner of a man’s KNOTTING became indicative of his TASTE and STYLE, to the extent that after the Battle of Waterloo (1815), the cravat itself was referred to as a TIE.
Croatia celebrates CRAVAT DAY on the 18th of October.