Beach pilgrimage

With abundance of beaches and sunshine, Tamil Nadu is where tourists come to soak in the sun, frolic in the waves and spend many a languid hour on the sands.  Let’s go on a “beach pilgrimage” instead.
kapaleeswarar-temple


Velankanni Church Chennai


(1) MILES TO GO : Easily, amongst the most crowded beaches in Tamil Nadu, MARINA is Asia’s longest beaches too.  Two temples, the 8th century PARTHASARATHY TEMPLE, with its majestic Rajagopuram, and the KAPALEESHWARAR TEMPLE, a 7th century Dravidian temple, are close to this beach.  USP : The Lighthouse on Marina offers a breath-taking view of the city and the sea.


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Ashtalakshmi_temple


(2) POP GOES THIS BEACH : Competing with the Marina in the popularity stakes, ELLIOT’S, which is lovingly called BESSIE by locals, is big business.  From trinket sellers and parrots which foretell you future to games and horse rides, this beach is entertainment central .  The VELANKANNI CHURCH and the ASHTALAKSHMI TEMPLE could be packed into the beach itinerary.  USP : The SCHMIDT MEMORIAL, erected in memory of a Dutch sailor who lost his life while saving a girl from drowning, is a prominent landmark.  That and the supposedly haunted BROKEN BRIDGE.


Shore Temple


(3) WHISPERING CAVES : The bustling temple town of Mamallapuram boasts of fabulous beaches.  The majestic SHORE TEMPLE looks out to the vast blue and showcases the 7th century Pallava architecture in all its splendour.  Browse through the shops that sell everything from sculptures to clothes, handicrafts, second-hand books, and lure you with promises of rejuvenating massages, healing Ayurveda, and uplifting yoga.  USP : If you plan your trip between December and March, you can the world-famous Mamallapuram Dance Festival.


Fort_Dansborg


(4) REMAINS OF THE DAY : If you’d rather have a beach all to yourself, or almost, then TRANQUEBAR is your go-to place.  Do a quick inspection of the 17th century FORT DANSBORG and then have a run of the museum nearby.  Check out the ancient 14th century SHIVA TEMPLE, steeped in history and mythology.  USP : If your are a seashell fiend, expect to find a scintillating variety here.


Caltra_Our_Lady_of_Lourdes_Church_East_Window_Dedication_2010_09_15


(5) FAITH MOVES WATERS :  VELANKANNI BEACH is one of the more famous beaches of the country, thanks to the Church of our Lady of Health located here.  The architecture of the Church, quite similar to the one at Lourdes, France, has earned it the sobriquet “LOURDES OF THE EAST”.  One can also go to the dargah at Nagore, the Murugan Temple at Sikkal, and the Sri Rangam Temple at Trichy, which isn’t far.  USP : The museum at the Basilica is a splendid draw.


Rameswaram_Temple_Inside


Rameshwaram Temple


Rama Sethu


(6) SITA’S RESCUE ROUTE : A dip in the waters of Dhanushkodi is considered by many.  The place, just 28km away from Sri Lanka, is famous for its mythological importance.  It is said that Lord Rama and His “vanara sena”, together with his brother Lakshmana, Hanuman and Ravana’s brother Vibhishana, built a bridge using floating stones.  They used this bridge to reach Lanka and rescue Sita from Ravana.  USP : You need to clear out of Dhanushkodi by 5.30p.m, after which the sea meets the mainland.  But, don’t miss a train ride on the PAMBAN BRIDGE.  The RAMESHWARAM TEMPLE, with a magnificent corridor arched by 1,200 granite columns, is a must-see.

————— jyothi.prabhakar@timesgroup.com. and purba.dutt@timesgroup.com.

People’s Prez passes away

Abdul Kalam


People’s President APJ ABDUL KALAM passes away.  The MAN WITH WINGS OF FIRE and also the MISSILE MAN and a man who loved little children passes away.  The 84-year-old Former President, who served as the 11th President of India from 2002 — 2007 was a simple man and childlike at heart.

A devout Muslim and among the most respected people of India, who contributed immensely, both as a scientist and as a President.  Mainly focussing on Research in Defence and space arena, he later involved himself in India’s Missile Programme, and came to be known as the “Missile Man of India”.  He played a crucial role when India tested its nuclear weapons at Pokhran in 1998, when the Vajpayee Government was in power.  Kalam was quoted as saying that like most of the technology he spearheaded, he himself was “Made in India”, having never been trained abroad.
He secured the backing of all political parties.  With his appointment, Kalam became the first scientist and first ever bachelor to occupy the Rashtrapati Bhawan.  He has been awarded the coveted civilian awards : Padma Bhushan (1981) and Padma Vibhushan (1990) and the Bharat Ratna (1997).  He is a recipient of several other awards and Fellow of many professional institutions.
He was a connoisseur of Carnatic Music, he would play the veena in his leisure hours.  Four of Kalam’s books —– Wings of Fire, India 2020 — A Vision for the New Millennium, My Journey and Ignited Minds —- Unleashing the Power within India —— have become household names in India.
He believed and epitomised the adage : SIMPLE LIVING & HIGH THINKING.  Rest In Peace, dear President.

Red pill…anyone?

Shihanspeaks

The past few days have been challenging. Possibly right up there with the toughest times in my life. I have been fighting…and fighting hard. Sometimes it feels like a losing battle, but then I manage to get hold of myself. I knew it wasn’t going to be easy…but I didn’t know it was going to be this hard as well…

Ok. If you have reached this line, without calling me to check on me already, remind me to delete you from my list of 3 am friends. I know I sounded depressed, and in a way, this is close to clinical depression. I have, for the past few days, been undergoing what is known as a partial digital detox.

For the uninitiated, digital detox is, in simple terms, working on getting rid of our overwhelming addiction to our devices, especially the smartphone. Take a moment to look around you…while walking…

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On the verge of extinction – 2

continued from Part 1, which you can read here : On the verge of extinction


HASANKEYF


(13) HASANKEYF, Turkey : This ancient town along the River Tigris has a history that stretches back 1000s of years, but that might come to an end in 2015, with the completion of a dam that will likely flood it, affecting about 50,000 people.  Controversy around the project and loss of International funding have deterred Turkey from continuing construction, with the promise that artefacts will be re-located and the townsfolk compensated.


battersea_power_station_sunset


(14) BATTERSEA POWER STATION, London :  The area surrounding one of London’s most “iconic” buildings, is now a construction site of 1,300 apartments, a hotel and 350,000 sq.ft of retail and restaurant space.  The chimneys of the power station are currently being demolished and replaced..  Even though the developers must respect the building’s status as being of special architectural or historic interest, Grade 11*, new high-rise blocks will soon obscure some of the most dramatic views of the station.


Machiya House Japan


(15)  MACHIYA HOUSES, Tokyo : The oldest among these traditional townhouses date back to the 17th century, but they are disappearing rapidly to make space for modern buildings. : their maintenance is difficult and construction of new ones has been prohibited since the end of World War -2.  After the World Monuments Fund put them on its “watch list”, a private company has started refurbishing some of them as “tourist accommodation”.


PICASSO MURALS Oslo


(16) PICASSO MURALS, Oslo :  Picasso’s first attempt at concrete murals adorn the walls of 2 government buildings in Oslo, called H-Block and Y-Block.  Both were heavily damaged during the ANDERS BREIVIK bombings in 2011, and, given the high cost of repairs —- estimated to be $70million —- a proposal has been made to demolish them and re-locate the murals.  But the public opinion is divided, as the artwork was designed specifically for these buildings.


Robinhood Gardens London


(17) ROBIN HOOD GARDENS, London :  This “streets in the sky” housing estate, in East London, is yet another example of British BRUTALIST architecture in Britain.  Demolition has already started at the site with a “last-ditch bid” on-going to stop it.  Previous attempts to get the structure listed as a “historical landmark” have failed, notwithstanding the support from several famed architects, including ZAHA HADID.


MozambiqueIslandFortress


(18) ISLAND OF MOZAMBIQUE :  A unique blend of Portuguese influence and local architecture has granted the inclusion of this fortified city on UNESCO’S World Heritage List in 1991.  After destruction caused by a typhoon in 1994, it was also included in the World Monument Fund’s “watch list”, a warning confirmed last year due to new threats from an anticipated growth in tourism and the necessity for a sensible conservation plan.


Portland public services building


(19) PORTLAND PUBLIC SERVICES BUILDING, Portland, USA : This 15-storey municipal office block was completed in 1982, but due to structural problems, it already needs renovations to the tune of $175million.  An early example of “post-Modernism” in a major city, it attracts diverging opinions, with many supporting its proposed demolition to make space for something new entirely.  Yet, in 2011, it was included in the US National Register of Historic Places.


Little Green Street


(20) LITTLE GREEN STREET, Kentish town, London : Immortalized by the KINKS in their 1966 video for the song DEAD END STREET, this is one of London’s few “intact Georgian streets” –It hasn’t changed much since 1780.  The dozen houses in the cobblestoned thoroughfare are protected historical buildings, but the land behind them is sought after by developers to build a new “gated complex”, which would turn the delicate 2.5-metre-wide street into a “truck route”.


Pompeii-Street


(21) POMPEII, Italy :  This world-famous Roman site is slowly crumbling to pieces : rainstorms have become harbingers of destruction as water has never been drained properly and the soil is now highly unstable.  With 3 distinct walls and an entire building coming down in just the last 5yrs, Italy’s UNESCO Commissioner has recently declared that “Pompeii is destined to collapse entirely”.


PRESTON BUS STATION


(22) PRESTON BUS STATION, Lancashire :  Opened in 1969, the massive bus station in the Northern England city of Preston, is an “iconic” example of BRUTALISM, a movement named after the materials, not the aesthetics —— it originates from the French —- BETON BRUT or RAW CONCRETE.  Avoiding demolition in 2013, the building is now the subject of an international competition to turn it into a YOUTH CENTRE.


MELNIKOV HOUSE


(23) MELNIKOV HOUSE, Moscow : Designed by famed Russian avant-garde architect —————- Konstantin Melkinov —– this iconic “cylindrical” building, finished in 1929, was for long his private residence and stands in stark contrast with traditional Soviet structures.  Now inhabited by the designer’s grand-daughter, it is risk of collapse due to excavation works for a nearby underground parking lot, which have already caused cracks in the structure.


Royal_Palace_Caserta


(24) ROYAL PALACE at CASERTA, Italy : The “world’s largest palace” (by volume) ——- over 2million cubic metres ——- this 18th century UNESCO HERITAGE SITE was commissioned by Bourbon King Charles — 111, to rival France’s Versailles.  It has appeared in STAR WARS and MISSION IMPOSSIBLE films.  But the structure has faced chronic neglect : a roof section collapsed in 2014 and renovation plans have been slowed down by bureaucracy.


House of Wonders


(25) HOUSE OF WONDERS, Zanzibar :  In 1883, when it was built, this was one of the most modern buildings in East Africa : the 1st to have electricity and an elevator.  Situated in STONE TOWN, a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 2000, it is today a museum of Swahili culture, but work needs to be done to preserve its structural integrity, after a corner of the structure collapsed in 2012.

Go see these magnificent and iconic structures ——- before it’s too late :  threatened by neglect, the elements, changing architectural trends or ruthless developers, they are all FIGHTING A HARD BATTLE FOR SURVIVAL.

———— Jacopo Prisco (CNN)

This & That…

(1) To the mind that is still, THE WHOLE UNIVERSE SURRENDERS ————– Lao-Tzu.
(2) OPERA is when a guy gets stabbed in the back and, instead of bleeding —- HE SINGS.  —– Ed Gardner.
(3) Why can’t you trust atoms ? Because THEY MAKE UP EVERYTHING.
(4) A NICE GUY will be nice to everyone.  Why? Because he wants everyone to like him, as he thinks he has many flaws and he is not good enough and does not have any self-esteem and self-worth, so he has to be nice.  Nice guys will always suffer all their lives, as they will be pleasing others all the time and will tire themselves completely.  A GOOD GUY has his self-worth, does good for everyone, but WILL NOT PLEASE EVERYONE.  He is there to do good, and does the right thing.  I would say, “Don’t be the nice guy, be the good guy.” —— Hrithik Roshan.  ( Better to be a nice good guy —- Rohit Ghai)
life positivity(5) What goes bzzz —– h-o-n-e-y-bzzz-bzzz ? SPELLING BEE.
(6) HOLI is somewhat akin to the ancient festival of SATURNALIA, where slaves and masters exchanged places for a day.  It led to a much-needed catharsis, a blowing off of steam as well as a reminder to all of their essential humanity. ———Swati Chopra.
(7) Life is for the living/ Death is for the dead
Let life be like music
And Death a NOTE UNSAID. —-Langston Hughes.
(8) The quest for “permanence” is the bedrock of man’s suffering and we have to come to terms with the fact that “everything in life is in a state of flux”———Mahesh Bhatt.
(9) The beauty of a woman isn’t in the clothes she wears, the figure that she carries or the way she combs her hair.  The beauty of a woman must be seen in “her eyes”.  Because that’s the doorway to her heart, the place where love resides.  True beauty in a woman is reflected in “her soul”.  It is the “caring” that she cares to give, the “passion” that she shows.  And, the beauty of a such a woman, with passing years, ONLY GROWS. —- Audrey Hepburn.
(10) Don’t part with your illusions.  When they are gone. you may still exist, but, YOU HAVE CEASED TO LIVE. — Mark Twain.
(11) A clown is like an “aspirin”, only he works “twice as faster”.
(12) It is said that the Sufi is one who possesses nothing except the name of God and service of humanity.  It is this spirit of “complete surrender and simplicity” which endears the Sufi to one and all, especially the “commoner”.


fragrance of ife


(13) The purpose of life is not to be happy.  It is to be USEFUL, to be honourable, to be COMPASSIONATE, to HAVE IT MAKE SOME DIFFERENCE THAT YOU HAVE LIVED & LIVED WELL. —–Ralph Waldo Emerson.

(14)  Our body is full of water, but whenever it hurts, “blood” comes out, and our hearts is full of blood, but whenever it hurts, tears” come out.
(15) Forgive others, not because they deserve forgiveness, but because YOU DESERVE PEACE.
(16) If you have a MAGNETIC PERSONALITY, and, yet, people don’t get attracted to you, it’s not your fault ………… THEY HAVE IRON DEFICIENCY IN THEIR BODIES.
(17) Latest joke doing the rounds in Bengaluru : To succeed in work-life, you have to cross the three most difficult bridges : K. R. Puram Bridge, Marathalli Bridge and the Silk Board Bridge.
(18) Don’t limit a child to your own learning, for HE WAS BORN IN ANOTHER TIME . —– Tagore.
(19) Don’t be afraid to take a “big step” if indicated.  YOU CAN’T CROSS A CHASM IN TWO SMALL JUMPS. —– David George.
(20) DOING what you like is FREEDOM.  LIKING what you do is HAPPINESS. .

The butterfly effect

Our smallest words and actions have the power to stir the world.  Ever met someone and walked away feeling like you had a great conversation, without having spoken a word ?  Sometimes you don’t say anything, and yet everything is said.  Such moments, though rare, have the potential to stay with you a lifetime.  They have a beauty beyond this world ——- one certainly beyond words.
It’s all about the connect.  We connect with each other at different levels, in different ways.  Words. Acts.  A gaze.  Sometimes, the changing quality of the silence.  With some it’s enough to just be connected, what is done or not done, said or left unsaid is not meaningful.  With others a thousand conversations are not enough.
butterfly-effect-chaos-theory1The critical point is that such connects needn’t be just between close ones, nor do they need to last forever.  Could you imagine that a fleeting connect with someone could have a major impact for the Universe ?  The Universe seems to work in strange ways.  We are all connected in such a manner that we cannot escape the slightest move of another.  In Shams of Tabriz’s 40 Rules of Love (Elif Shafak), the 26th rule is, “The universe is one being.  Everything and everyone  is interconnected through an invisible web of stories.  Whether we are aware of it or not, we are all in a silent conversation…….. One man’s pain will hurt us all.  One man’s joy will make everyone smile.”
Heard of the Butterfly Effect ?  The scientific theory that the flap of a butterfly’s wings in Brazil could set off a tornado in Texas by creating tiny changes in the atmosphere that could accelerate or even prevent the tornado.  Call it the Domino Effect or the Ripple Effect, but the point is the same as in Shams’ 26th rule.  We cannot escape the consequences of our actions or words, because “words that come out of our mouths do not vanish but are perpetually stored in infinite space, and they will come back to us in due time.”
Lorenz_Butterfly_by_uk_daveWe witness this in everyday life with amazing impact.  Consider this —– you wake up one morning to a smiling husband offering you morning coffee.  You feel good, sing through your shower and are appreciative of colleagues at work.  Your colleagues feeling appreciated goes home happy, cooks an extra special meal and serves it with a smile.  The bonhomie at the table carries through to the next morning when a well-fed, happy family steps out to spread happiness.  You just made the world a better place.
Now look at it from another perspective.  Your husband wakes up grouchy, fights with you.  Agitated, you shout at the driver.  Irritated, he drives aggressively and infuriates many others.  Your colleague, receiving the brunt of your anger, spreads the ill will at home and her unhappy family steps out next morning to spread further animosity.  You just made the world a worse place.
Heard the story of Polish Prime Minister Paderewski and Herbert Hoover ?  Paderewski, also a legendary pianist, helped a couple of students study further.  Later as Prime Minister, when he received relief for a starving Poland, he realised that his country’s benefactor was one of the students he had helped, Hoover, now the head of the US Food & Relief Administration.  A massive Ripple Effect indeed.
We cannot pass by that person who needs our help, nor be rude to anyone without far-reaching consequences.  A kind word spoken is a kind word heard.  We have the power to make a difference by just being responsible and aware.
Understanding the power of the Butterfly Effect is a great way to feel empowered.  How could you be inconsequential in any way whatsoever, when a little movement or word from you could have such world-stirring effects ?
 

Costa Brava

costa-brava

COSTA BRAVA (Spanish : WILD or RUGGED COAST) is a “coastal gem” in north-eastern Spain, and it stretches from BLANES, 60km northeast of Barcelona, to the French border.

The coast was named COSTA BRAVA by Ferran Agullo in an article published in the Catalan newspaper La Veu de Catalunya in September 1908.  He referred to the “rugged” landscape of the Mediterranean coast which runs from the river TORDERA, near BLANES, to BANYULS with the name COSTA  BRAVA.  COSTA is the Catalan and Spanish word for “coast”, while BRAVA means “rugged” or “wild”.  This term was officially recognized and promoted in the 1960s, as it was deemed suitable to promote tourism in the region.

Spain Costa Brava


Before Costa Brava became the official name, other names were suggested : COSTA GREGA (Greek Coast), COSTA del CORALL ( Coral Coast), COSTA SERENA (Serene Coast), COSTES de LLEVANT (Levant Coasts) or MARINA de L’EMPORDA (Emporda Marine) .


costa_brava_15


The combination of a very good summer climate, nature, excellent beaches and a favourable foreign exchange rate, which made Spain a relatively inexpensive tourist destination, was exploited by the construction of a large number of hotels and apartments.  Tourism rapidly took over from fishing as the principal business of the area.


Pica d'Estats (3143m)


The Costa Brave is the sum of amazing sensations from Blanes to Portbou.  Nature plays a staring role in the form of 3 natural parks : 3 distinctive settings, 3 areas of great biological importance.  The coastline will also take your breath away with the beauty of its superb beaches and heavenly coves nestled among cliffs, not to mention typical Mediterranean towns such as CADAQUES or CALELLA de PALAFRUGELL and unique beauty spots such as the Bay of Roses, Banyoles Lake and the Botanical Gardens of SANTA CLOTILDE, PINYA de ROSA, MARIMURTRA & CAPROIG.


CADAQUES SPAIN


The Costa Brava also boasts an array of cultural assets : sites that display the wonderful legacy of Salvador Dali in EMPORDA, the Monastery of SANT PERE de RODES or the CASTLE of PERATALLADA; medieval towns such as TOSSA de MAR, PUBOL or PALS; the ruins of EMPURIES, a major archaeological site providing a fascinating insight into how the ancient Greeks and Romans lived; the traditional ceramics of LA BISBAL and GIRONA’S Old Quarter, featuring a superb historical gem, the Jewish Quarter.


Bay of Roses Spain


In 1998, the coastal towns of Costa Brava signed a Charter called the CATA de TOSSA, which undertook to pursue environmental protection, along with tourism.  This recognized the value of the region’s wide range of natural habitats.  The MEDES ISLANDS, off the coast of L’ESTARTIT, are in Spain’s first marine reserve and provide a home to a wide range of fish and aquatic flora.  The nearby wildfowl reserve on marshlands at AIGUAMOLLS de L’EMPORDA also saved land from the potential ravages of development.


Aerea_estany_de_banyoles


MEDES ISLANDS : The small archipelago of the Medes, located in the heart of the Costa Brava, in the town of TORRDELLA de MONTGRI and close to the mountain of the same name is composed of 7 islands that are characterized by its rich marine ecosystem.  The proximity of the coast and the River Ter, these islands provide a great amount of organic matter, allowing the variety of flora and fauna typical of the Medes.  Some examples of this variety are the colony of gulls, the peculiar terrestrial vegetation, algae or coralline seabed where you can go diving.


Santa_Clotilde


ALBERA MASSIF :  Declared area of outstanding natural beauty, the landscape presents one with the largest concentrations of megalithic monuments in Catalonia, with small Romanesque Churches that make this area one of the most rich heritage and history of the surrounding region of the ALT EMPORDA.  And the ALBERA MASSIF presents transition vegetation between the species of the PYRENEAN mountains and the Mediterranean, as well as fauna, characterized  by great diversity, between the mountain areas and the wetland Catalonia.


the ruins of EMPURIES


LAKE of BANYOLES :  This area of great landscape and geology covers the whole of the coast called the LAKE OF BANYOLES.  With an area of 107hectares and a “feature-eight”, and is one of the largest in the IBERIAN PENINSULA.  The most important lakes of this system are its origin and source of the feed water through seepage of rain in some parts of the GARROTXA through subterranean flows caused.  LAKE OF BANYOLES and the collection of small ponds, present throughout the year and chemical processes of thermal stratification.  In addition to these features, concentrated around the lake is a wide variety of flora and fauna.


Castello_d'Empuries


ISLAND OF TER : The island of River Ter is a natural area of great ecological value for its biodiversity and for its potential as a setting for environmental education, both for students and for all those who love nature.  The area is protected by municipal regulations and by the condition WILDLIFE REFUGE.  Fauna include otter, genet and various species of butterflies typical of aquatic environments and a variety of birds such as night heron, kingfisher and lesser spotted woodpecker among others.  In total, about 200 species have been observed.


raya


The main rivers that pour their waters into the Costa Brava are : MUGA, FLUVIA. TER & TORDERA.  The climate is typical Mediterranean  ——– mild and temperate characterized by hot dry summers and moderately cold winters.  In the 1950s, the Costa Brava was identified by the Spanish Government and local entrepreneurs as being suitable for substantial development as a holiday destination, mainly for package holiday tourists from Northern Europe, especially the UK and France.

History buried in Goa’s seabed

Legends speculate that around 600 shipwrecks dot Goa’s seabed, though marine historians say an accurate estimate would be in double digits.  ———- March 1943.—— The chaos of World War–2 is in its fourth year even as a Goan summer gets under way.  A group of British war veterans embark on what appears to be their last shot at adventure.   They trade in their business



shipwrecs-under-goa-sea


suits, take leave from their businesses, and hatch up a devious plan.  The objective —- to destroy four Axis ships anchored at Goa’s Marmagoa harbour. According to CNANS, Lisbon, several Portuguese ships capsized off the Indian coast between 1497 and 1612.  Most of them capsized in the waters off Goa due to storms, hidden reefs and sandbars.

Shipwrecks pique the interest of maritime archaeologists, divers and treasure hunters, alike.  They not only awaken romantic notions of adventure and courage, but also act as keepers of maritime history, trade and culture and have their own story to tell.  So, back to the foreboding night of March 1943.
The seemingly innocuous merchant vessels, the German ships EHRENFELS, DRACHENFELS & BRAUNFELS, and the Italian ship ANFORA, were transmitting critical information about British ships through coded radio transmitters to Axis “listening posts”.  The information was then relayed to German U-boats who then attacked the British ships.  To silence the coded messages, the motley group of middle-aged commandos of the Calcutta Light Horse Regiment used a hopper barge to assault the vessels.
suzy-s-wreckThey managed to get the job done and Goa got its dose of excitement as the four Axis ships blew up and sank into the sea.  A member of the raiding commandos wrote a book titled “Boarding Party : The Last Action of the Calcutta Light Horse”.  The burning of the 4 ships also inspired the 1980 Hollywood movie “Sea Wolves”, starring Gregory Peck, Roger Moore and David Niven.
The 4 ships join the numerous shipwrecks that the sea swallowed.  But they were not the first.  Shivaji, the Maratha warrior had a small but swift naval force that wrecked havoc and plundered European merchant ships for gold, gems, ivory and other precious cargo.  The remains of those wooden ships probably lie scattered along the western coast swallowed by coral and silt.
The earliest reference to shipwrecks near Goa is from the 11th century which hints at the sinking of King Guhalladeva –1’s ship.   Archaeologists feel several shipwrecks belonging to the Kadamba Dynasty era are also hidden around Goa.
One of the oldest shipwrecks along the western coast, and definitely the oldest Portuguese wreck to be explored in India is settled off the SUNCHI reef, between Marmagoa and Cabo de Rama, in Goan waters.  Iron guns, the barrel of a handgun, granite blocks, ivory and hippopotamus teeth were recovered from the early 17th century Portuguese shipwreck.
But it isn’t always precious cargo that these ships carry.  Somewhere towards the late 1860s, a homeowner was despondent.  The hollow column-drums, drainage-pipes, vases, roof and floor tiles and chimney bricks, that he had ordered for his house, remain undelivered till today, lying at the bottom of the sea near St. George’s reef, to the south of Marmagoa Port.  Here in 15 metres of water rests the wreck of a 19th century cargo ship which was ferrying terracotta artefacts to Goa.  The tiles found on Goa shipwreckit are inscribed with “Basel Mission Tile Works 1865.”  The Basel Mission was a Christian mission, which had a tile factory in Mangaluru.  Recalling his underwater explorations, NIO marine archaeologist A. S. Gaur says, “If you go underwater even today after all the dives, you still feel the same excitement.”
A relatively more modern steel-hulled steam-engine shipwreck lies just off Goa at the AMEE SHOALS.  Marine archaeologists have found steam boilers, boiler-bricks, flanges and broken copper pipes scattered around the wreck, the first such wreck to be explored in the region.  The stamp o the flanges and the 3 Scotch boilers hints that the rusting wreck could be a British merchant ship dating to the 1880s.
More accessible today are the 2 wrecks that scuba divers visit near Grande Island.  SUZY’S WRECK is a 30m long metal wreck while the other is imaginatively called DAVY JONES LOCKER.  ——————— “I love exploring shipwrecks …….. the surreal experience, mysterious,” scuba diver and instructor Ajey Patil says, ” Suzy’s wreck is in a calm shallow bay and there are stories that it sank in a storm.”
While National Institute of Oceanography has done yeoman’s service in exploring and cataloguing the old shipwrecks, till date no records exist to explain how Suzy’s wreck and Davy Jones Locker capsized or if those are their real names at all.  Some call the Davy Jones Locker “SS RITA” but there is nothing to show for it.  It was published in the Journal of Nautical Archaeology.  Divers and old timers have created embellished stories to trade over a warm cup of something.  But it would be interesting to know the truth, because as they say TRUTH IS STRANGER THAN FICTION.
————– Newton.Sequeira@timesgroup.com.

Potosi

potosi-

POTOSI is a city and the capital of the department of Potosi in Bolivia.  It is one of the highest cities in the world by elevation at a nominal 13,420ft.  For centuries, it was the location of the Spanish Colonial Mint.

There is no authoritative etymology for the word “Potosi”.  According to legend, in about 1462, HUAYNA CAPAC, the 11th SAPA INCA of what by then was known as the Inca Empire “set out for CCOLQUE PORCO, the location of his mines, from which were taken innumerable ARROBAS of silver.”  (An ARROBA is a Spanish unit of weight equivalent to approximately 11kg)  Before leaving there, he saw Potosi and admiring its beauty and grandeur, he said (speaking to his court) : “This doubtless must have much silver in its heart”, whereby he subsequently ordered his vassals to go to CCOLQUE PORCO ………. and work the mines and remove from them all the rich metal.  They did so, and having brought their tools of flint and reinforced wood, they climbed the hill, and after having probed for its veins, they were about to open those veins, when they heard a frightening thunderous noise which shook the whole hill, and they heard a voice which said : “Do not take the silver from this hill, because it is destined for other masters”.

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Amazed at hearing this reasoning, the Incan vassals desisted in their purpose and retired to PORCO and told the King what had happened, relating the occurrence in their own language, and coming to the word “noise”, they said “POTOCSI”, which means there was a great thunderous noise and from that later was derived (corrupting a letter) the name of POTOSI.  Another explanation, given by several QUECHUA speakers, is that POTOQ is an onomatopoeic word that reproduces the sound of the hammer against the ore, and oral tradition has it that the town derived its name from this word.


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Potosi lies at the foot of the CERRO de POTOSI, sometimes referred to as CERRO RICO (rich mountain), which was famous for providing vast quantities of silver for Spain during the period of the New World Spanish Empire.  The mountain, which is popularly conceived of as being “made of silver ore”, caused the city of Potosi to become one of the largest cities in the New World.  After 1800 , the silver mines were depleted, making “tin” the main product.  This eventually led to a slow economic decline.  Nevertheless, the mountain continues to be mined for silver to this day.  Due to poor worker conditions, such as lack of protective equipment against inhalation of dust, many of the miners contract SILICOSIS and have a life expectancy of around 40yrs.  The mountain is still a significant contributor to the city’s economy, employing some 15,000 miners.


Santa Teresa Church Potosi


As a result of centuries long mining, in 2011 a “sinkhole” appeared I the top and had to be filled with ultra-light cement.  The summit also continues to sink a few centimetres every year.  In 2014, UNESCO added CERRO RICO & POTOSI to its List of Endangered  Sites, owing to “uncontrolled mining operations” that risk “degrading the site”.  The CERRO RICO de POTOSI Mine is one of the largest silver mines in Bolivia and in the world.  The mine has estimated reserve of 1.76billion oz. of silver and 540 million tonnes of ore grading 0.17% tin.

Potosi features a rare climate for a city of its size, due to its extreme elevation.  Summers are cool and wet with daily highs rarely rising above 20 degrees, while winters feature cooler days with much cooler nights averaging –4 degreesC.
There are many interesting places to visit in Potosi.

Plaza_de_San_Francisco,_San_Luis_Potosí_(4340782329)


(1) THE CATHEDRAL : Initiated in 1564, this “single-aisled” Cathedral collapsed in 1807.  The present Cathedral is the work of Fray Manuel de Sanahuja who started it in 1808.  It was inaugurated in 1836.  The Cathedral is built in the Baroque style.  It is considered as one of the most beautiful examples in a series of great Cathedrals of Latin America.  On the “inside”, the concept is POLYCHROME which today calls the attention to the gold mouldings on a white background and the bases of the columns, where one can still observe tiles originating from Jesuit Churches.  Among the Colonial art pieces that belong to the 1st church, one can find the 4 wooden medallions of high relief placed above the interior doors.  The reliefs of the Assumption can be found in the Trinity Altar, and the Coronation of the Virgin in the baptistery

(2) SANTA TERESA CHURCH :  Work was started in 1685 and the construction of the Church and the Convent took 7yrs.  Above the entrance are preserved “3 Coats of Arms” —— the central one corresponding to the Order of the Carmelites and the 2 on the sides to the co-founders whose portraits can be found in the same Convent.  The ATRIUM of the Church, which had been closed off by walls finished in festooned arches and half-point arches, was replaced in the middle of this century by round pillars of stone and iron railings.  It is of a “single aisle” covered with a wooden framework and divided by an ARC de TRIUMPH of cedar wood, re-covered by gold plating and polychrome.  The façade is made up of  a portal foreshadowing the so called MESTIZO STYLE and a belfry which is the 1st example of this type of bell tower that abound in the Imperial City.  There is a museum installed in the cloisters of the Convent .  Altar pieces, wood carvings, rich materials, furnishings books, relics, silverware and diverse objects from the 17th and 18th centuries were added.

Cayara Farm Potosi


(3) The SAN FRANCISCO CHURCH was founded in 1547 by Friar Gasper de Valverde.  In 1707, the old Church was destroyed and a new one built in its place.  It was inaugurated in 1726 and is the oldest cloister in Bolivia.  The church has 3 aisles covered with cannon vaults and 9 orange-coloured domes, featuring a beautiful Baroque entrance and another on the side which shelters a Cross.

(4) The LAGOONS :  Viceroy Toledo constructed a system of “damming” in 1572, which later created a network of reservoirs and waterways in order to lessen the difficulty of having to take minerals long distance for grinding.  The 1st Lagoon was CHALVIRI.  The lagoons of ILDE FONSO & SAN SEBASTIAN are near mountain, and there are dirt roads which lead to them.
(5) LA PUERTA is a locality near Potosi.  On the way to this place one passes the famous DEVIL’S CAVE.

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(6) LA PALCA is a modern volatilization plant.  Presently it is defunct.

(7) TARAPAYA LAGOON is where one can find a “circular volcanic boiler” of hot spring water that is known as INCAS BATH.  It is a perfect circle of about 100m in diameter that instead of spewing lava, emanates hot water.

Red lagoon Potosi


(8) CAYARA FARM is the best Colonial Hacienda that is preserved in Potosi.

Other places of importance are CANTUMARCA, CHAQUI ( there is a hotel spa here) whose ferruginous waters are recommended for good health, BETANZOS (an agricultural village) where thereSunday fairs are held, where you can find woven, ceramic and metal objects and beautiful original costumes  MANQUIRI is a famous sanctuary situated between red sandy mountains.  It is visited by pilgrims.  SALT DESERT of UYUNI has a altitude of 3,665m above sea level.  It is the largest “salt desert of the world.”  THE RED LAGOON is at an altitude of 4,278m above sea level.  It is notable for the reddish colour of its water and for the presence of geysers, given that it is a volcanic region.  GREEN LAGOON is a salt-water lagoon, 4,350m above sea level.  The region has sulphuric mines.

Laguna Verde, Bolivia


Id-ul-Fitr

Eid-ul-Fitr


Today our Muslim brothers and sisters celebrate ID-ul-FITR.  ID MUBARRAK to all.

It was an EID day in Madina, during the lifetime of the Prophet.  All his companions, young and old and especially children, were clad in new clothes.  They were preparing to rejoice and partake of the divine bounties of Id.  They offered namaz led by the Prophet.  Thereafter, they warmly greeted and hugged each other and had a whale of a time.  The most excited were the children who were overwhelmed by their parents’ love and care.  But a little boy among them looked sad and sullen.
The Prophet came across the sad boy, bent down and lovingly asked, “Why are you unhappy, my dear ?”  The boy who couldn’t even see who was before him, sobbed, “Leave me alone, please.”  The Prophet of Mercy very gently ran his fingers through the little boy’s hair and asked again.  The boy opened up, “My father is no more, and my mother has married again, but my stepfather does not want me to live at home any more.  Today is ID and all the children are happy with new garments and delicious food.  But I have no new clothes or food, neither do I have a home.”
The Prophet felt sad and said, “I can feel your emotions, my dear.  I lost both my mother and my father when I was a child.   But, if I become your new father and my wife Ayesha your new mother, and my daughter Fatima your new sister, would you be happy then ?”  The little boy was utterly surprised and, when he looked up, he found that it was Prophet Muhammad, the most gracious man, before him.  He felt he was in seventh heaven when the Prophet took him home and gave him beautiful clothes and delicious food.  It was a wonderful Id for the little boy who was no longer an orphan.
ID literally means something that returns every year, while FITR means a form of charity.  So Id-ul-Fitr is an occasion that comes every year to remind s of our humane duty towards the weaker sections of society.  It returns every year to enliven the spirit of sharing with the destitute ones, especially the orphans.
This is the prime purpose of Id-ul-Fitr.  Therefore, it is enjoined upon Muslims on this day to distribute FITRAH ( a fixed amount of charity mandatory for every Muslim) to the poor.  We are also exhorted to hold delicious feasts and invite friends and neighbours.  Such noble acts on Id-ul-Fitr are meant for SILAH RAHMI, i.e. maintaining ties of kinship , bonds of love, mutual harmony, brotherhood and social integrity.
Such a person who maintains good relations with others is called al-Wasil in Arabic.  The Prophet explained that “al-Wasil is not the one who recompenses the good done to him by his relatives, but al-Wasil is the one who keeps good relations even with those who have severed relations with him.”
Id is not only about feasting on delicious food and wearing fancy dresses.  It is actually about “lighting the candles of delight, kindness, compassion, brotherhood and mercy.”  Once the Prophet was asked what actions were the most endearing to him.  He replied, “Hearten the human beings, feed the hungry, help the afflicted, lighten the sorrow of the sorrowful and remove the wrongs of the injured.”
———— Ghulam Rasool Dehlvi.